The jewellery of Rajasthan presents a synthesis of cultures, creativity and a saga of timelessness. Perhaps it was the mundane landscape that brought out the beauty and contrast of Rajasthani jewel craft in terms of colour, quality and craftsmanship.

The kings and nobles of Rajasthan were patrons of craft and the most exquisite jewellery of the state developed under their patronage. The influence of the Mughals left a deep impression and influenced jewellery designs and techniques. It exhibited a distinct Persian influence and elevated the designs to a new level of sophistication.
Rajput rulers took pride in encouraging artisans and most jewellery making is confined to a family tradition handed down by their ancestors for generations.

Traditional Rajasthani jewellery

• Borla ' hair ornament
• Hair pins in silver with dangling bells
• Nose ring (nuth)
• Karan phool or floral earring
• Jhumka- silver / gold bell shaped dangling earringas
• Champakali necklace ' traditional silver necklace
• Bujband ' armlet in silver
• Chuda - bangles
• Hathphool- delicate kundan hand jewellery worn on all five fingers and wrist
• Kardhani ' waist belt
• Bichua ' toe rings
• hanjhar or Payal : anklets with delicate bells in silver

Kundan

Essentially influenced by the Mughals, Kundan jewellery is a speciality of Rajasthan. Kundas as the name implies, uses pure 24 carat gold to set the mirror like pieces. The casing, is made in gold, by the craftsman, and lac ( a resin) is filled into the grooves. Mirror like pieces cut to size are then embedded into the grooves and these are sealed into position with kundan or 24 carat gold.

This was the first method of setting stones in gold, before claw setting was introduced under the western influence. Several craftsmen were employed together to produce one piece of artistry:

• The chiterias were the artists who drew out the design
• haarias were the engravers
• Sunaa was the goldsmith
• Minakaar was the craftsman who did the enamelwork

Meenakari

Meenakari is the delicate art of enamelwork on gold. Traditionally it is done in the festive Indian colours of green and red, but Meenakari It was brought to Jaipur by raja Mansingh of Amer. Initially it was a set of craftsment from Lahore who had mastered the art in Lahore, and later taught it to Rajasthani craftsmen. Today, Alwar, Nathdwara, Jaipur and Pratapgarh are renowned for quality Minakari ( enamel work).

Rajasthani jewellery is a vivid melange of Mughal influence on Rajastani craft. Each area has its own distinct craft and style in jewellery. All women are bedecked in jewellery, whether in silver, gold, ivory or lac.

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